Using the invisible seam is a common method when you want to join crochet projects or pieces together. It is especially popular when joining squares, motifs, panels or ends on infinity scarves and neck warmers.

I use this method almost exclusively within my patterns because I like the neat and tidy look. This is just my preference and there are many other ways to join and connect your work.

I’d love to share how I do the invisible seam. Read more about it below…

For this tutorial, you will need two items to seam together. You can use granny squares or two small, simple swatches. I have an ongoing stash buster blanket that is made with small hexagons so I will be demonstrating on this project. Here are some tutorials if you’d like to practice making your own:

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A few notes:

• When using the invisible seam method, you will need to have your pieces with the right side facing each other
• You will need to work into the back loops of each stitch
• This method makes a clean, flat join and the yarn colour is tucked underneath. If you use a colour that matches one (or both) pieces of what you’re seaming, you won’t see the seam at all
• If you use a colour that isn’t in your final row/round of what you’re seaming, it could show through slightly. For this project that I am using as an example, it is a stash buster blanket and I’m using scrap yarn to seam. It won’t really match the edging of my pieces, but it works for this project
• When I mention the word “piece” below, this will mean whatever project you are using for this tutorial (granny squares/hexagaons/swatches/etc)
• You can apply this joining method for a variety of crochet projects

To begin, cut a piece of yarn appropriate to the length that you are seaming. For these small hexies, I will be seaming only a few stitches, so I cut a piece of yarn approximately 30 inches long. As you can see in the photo, I have my hexagons lying flat with the right side facing up at me.

Place your two pieces together so that the right sides are facing each other. Find the starting stitch at the point you want to begin and make sure it matches up with the crochet piece on the opposite side.

There are many ways to start and end your seams. I like to tie a loose knot to keep the end from pulling through. It also allows me to untie, give a little tug to even everything out and then fasten more securely when I’m finished.

The invisible seam is kept “invisible” by working under the back loops only. The front loops will pull together to create a tidy ridge on the top (right side) and hide the seam underneath. It’s important to know that the piece closest to you has the wrong side facing out which now means the back loop is actually the loop in the front. If you were to flip your piece to the right side, the back loop would return to its natural position.

Take your yarn needle and position it so the point is facing you and go under the first back loop of the piece furthest from you. Continue by going under the back loop of the stitch directly across on the piece closest to you. Pull through, gently bringing your yarn with it.

Working under the back loop of the next stitch on the piece closet to you, pull your needle through and across to the piece furthest from you, underneath the back loop of the stitch that is directly across. Pull through, bringing all your yarn with it.

Work under the next unworked back loop of the piece furthest from you. Continue by going under the back loop of the stitch directly across and pull through, gently bringing your yarn with it.

The rest is simply a repeat of this zig-zag motion. Going under one loop, moving to the other piece and working under the back loop directly across until you reach your end point.

Once you reach the end of what you are seaming, you can now untie the knot at the beginning. Gently tug both ends of the yarn to straighten. You might need to slightly adjust your project pieces to ensure they are lined up and even. You can now tie your beginning knot more securely and knot the end of your seam in the appropriate space. Fasten off and weave in your ends under the seam.

Here’s what my hexie’s looked like after seaming with the right sides facing out. You can see the ridge created by leaving the front loops unworked and how it does a good job of hiding the yarn I used to join. The golden shade doesn’t really poke through and if I matched the colours to the motifs, it would definitely be hidden. I really love the neatness that this method creates.

And there you go! That is how to work the invisible seam to join projects and motifs. I hope you found this tutorial helpful. If you’re looking for more fun techniques to learn, please click the button below:

Happy Crocheting!